A special tribute to Serbia

Our motorhome travels came to a standstill once we arrived in Serbia. My blogs became less frequent even though cyber access was better than in some other countries.  Time seemed to slow down, eating habits and daily routines all changed. I am unable to explain the reason for this rather drastic change in habits but they were evidently there.

When we first arrived in May on election day,  the days were still cold and we experienced a full week of continuous rainfall.  Wheat in the fields was ready for harvest and corn ready for planting. The grass was green, flowers blooming and it was evident that Spring had arrived.

We pitched our mobile home in the camping grounds on the outskirts of Belgrade in Zemun Polje where we were surrounded by fields of corn.  The camp ground is called auto kamp Dunav. It is run by the AMSS group. The facilities that they do have  - sanitary block with hot showers ,   fresh water to fill your tank as well as chemical waste disposal. Apart from these listed there really isn’t much else on the ground. Waste water as we were advised can be dumped somewhere on a sides street. I wouldn’t advise this method. Instead, the petrol stations have car washes and waste water areas and you can freely dump your waste water at any one of these sites.  The camp ground is not designed for a long term holiday in Serbia and is best described as a camping ground for transit stay. Similar to the country it is located in.

We did day trips and on one particular excursion we visited the  region of Srem – Vojvodina. Instead of the freeway we took the old road via  Stara Pazoa, Nova Pazoa and Indjia. This was once the main road to Novi Sad from Belgrade. Now most people get on the E75 freeway.  The trip via the old road is slightly longer but much nicer. No point in taking the freeway when you want to look at the scenery and sights. The road took us to Banostol a small village beside the Danube overlooking Novi Sad. There we stumbled upon a lovely wine cellar. The cellar door was open and we managed to taste some lovely Riesling, dry red and the local “bermet”. A sweet red wine infused with various spices like cinnamon and clove, all contributing to its lovely flavour. The owner and producer of the wines – Jova, explained that he personally travelled to Italy to buy the  grape vines that he wanted to plant as he was very particular about the grapes that he uses to make his wines.  You can buy lovely wines from as little as 400 dinars  (AU$4) for 2litres. The wines have been carefully packed in plastic bottles for ease of transport. It is obvious that Gazda* Jova  knows his business and is well equipped for tourists wanting to take his wines abroad. 

 For those wanting to do a wine tour there is signage from the freeway Belgrade – Zagreb E70 just 60km North of Belgrade that directs you to the  “fruskogorski wine route” or Fruskogorski vinski put”. A lovely route for wine buffs or anyone that enjoys nice scenery.

Fruskagora is well known for its Monastries  Krusedol, Grgeteg, Rakovac and Ravanica just to name a few.  Maps of the region are readily available from the Belgrade or Novi Sad tourist bureaus. The monarchs at the monasteries will greet you with a smile and show you through their monasteries that are filled with history dating back many hundreds of years.  The area was under Austrio-Hungarian rule and differs in history from the south of Serbia which was under Turkish Ottoman rule for over 500years.

We left Gazda Jova and his cellar with some lovely wines and headed back towards Belgrade. Many days were spent with friends and family eating locally produced foods.  We ate lovely cheese unpasteurised hard cheese from the village of Grgurevci as well as smoked meats.  The omletes we ate were made with free range eggs and the yolks were yellow like food colouring had been added. Similar to ones I ate in Tasmania. One thing that I would like to recommend and something that I don’t eat or even think about eating while I am at home is  bacon. Here they call it “slanina” and in Srem they have a particular type called “sapunjara”. The Sapunjara is pure fat and I have thoroughly enjoyed it for breakfast with freshly picked tomatoes, raw onion slices and fresh bread from the bakery.  As I said in the beginning of this special tribute to Serbia many a things changed while I was here and it is evident that eating habits totally went out of the norm. No muesli here was eaten even if it is readily available at all of the supermarkets.

Belgrade itself is such a lovely city. Its architecture is rich with many areas resembling Parisian streets and walkways.

The Skadarlija area with its cobbled streets and poetic bohemian atmosphere was once the quarter where poets and writers congregated and lived.   It is a lovely area and at night comes alive with musicians and singers entertaining guests with their instruments that are played personally to “your ear”. The food is traditionally Serbian but it is also untraditionally expensive.  I say untraditionally expensive because for foreigners food in Serbia is very cheap.  Here are a few examples of what prices you can expect to pay for food.  Crepes filled with Eurocrem*  and plazma* 180dinars (AU$1.80) , pljeskavica* with kupus* , pindjur* in a lepinja*  250dinars (Au$2.50), burek* with cheese or meat 180dinars (AU$1.80).

Apart from the great food here don’t miss the traditional tourist areas of Kalemegdan fortress. The Usce just under Dorcol (Not to be mistaken with the Usce shopping centre in New Belgrade). The Usce under Dorcol has a great cycle track which goes all the way to the Ada. There are cafes and restaurants on boats over looking the Danube.  The river bank along the Danube on the Northern side of the city – Novi Beograd/Zemun looks onto the city of Belgrade and  is also a fabulous spot.  Belgrade is situated on two rivers and hence the terminology Usce –  which means narrowing. The term refers specifically to the joining of two rivers the Sava from Slovenia and the Danube from the Black forest in Germany.  Continuing on as one into the Black sea. There are museums and galleries as well as regular shows that are held in the prestige Sava Centre or huge Belgrade Arena. Don’t forget that Serbia is a well known sporting country now not only with Novak Djokic at the top of the list but basketball, handball and volleyball as well as soccer. If you are lucky to be in town when red Star plays Partizan this is always a match to see.

While we were in Belgrade we were less fortunate to experience some tropical heat waves of plus 38degrees. We found sitting under a shady tree near water the best way to get through these days of extreme heat. Most “Belgradians” * go to the Ada*. This area has been transformed into a swimming area on the river Sava. There is a pebbled area for those wanting to sun bathe and swim, a secured area for nudist sun bathing whilst there are cafes, restaurants and lots of shady areas for those wanting to escape the direct sunlight. At night the area transforms into an evening bathing spot where people congregate after a hard day at work. There is a path way that goes all the way around the river which is also a pleasant spot to exercise either by walking, riding a bike or on roller blades.   Bikes and roller blades can be hired for those that don’t have their own.
 



Market day in Pirot

There is so much to do and see in Serbia. Before I finish this blog on Serbia I would like to make a very special mention to the area around Pirot and Bela Palanka which is situated in the South East of Serbia close to the border of Bulgaria.   An area not to be missed if you are heading South via Nis. Bela Palanka has a lovely market that operates on Fridays. Fresh fruit and vegetables are sold here and are all locally grown. We ate some of the local produce and this area is famously well known for its cheeses like kackavalj*  as well as goats yoghurt and Pirotsko jagnje*

Time slows down in Bela Palanka with a horse drawn carriage

 

Between Pirot and Bela Palanka lies a small village called Sljivovik. A run down village but there is a keen couple there called Vera and Stanco Zivkovic that have transformed a once run down family home into an oasis in the mountains. They produce their own fruit and vegetables as well as buying local foods from farmers. They ritually start the day with a small shot of sljivovica* which they have produced from their own plums, then a tablespoon of slatko* make from cranberries. There after comes a cup of black traditional coffee or better termed as “Turkish coffee”. All of this comes with good conversation, fresh air and lots of  love.  Vera was once a chef in a well known hotel in Ivanjica so you can rest assured  that the food she cooks is flavoursome and hearty. We particularly enjoyed her bean broth.  We were fortunate to be present one morning when the president of the village visited our hosts asking them to come to the village square to discuss an important matter of water. The village bell was rung before hand to alert the village that a meeting was to take place.  The meeting had already begun with sljivovic and coffee at our hosts’ house.

The early morning meeting with the village President. (He's the one with the cap)

 

Looking down at the village of Sljivovik

The views from the hill top in Sljivovik were magic  and we thoroughly enjoyed the sunset.  While on the hill top we nestled next to the troughs where goats stop to drink whilst on their daily walks. A particular memory we will take home with us is the melodic sounds of the goats bells. A unique experience and one that is difficult to describe. The bells of the goats are usually heard in the  morning  or late afternoon as they go for their feed.  We learnt that the brass bells were specifically purchased to be in tone. Hence the term “music to your ears”. It is not a chime rather a soft melody of bells ringing.  When visiting this area be sure to listen out for the “goat bell symphony” as they go for their daily feed.

On our next visit to the area  we hope to climb to the top of the “Sljivovicki vis”. They say on a clear day you can see the Avala tower in Serbia and Sofija in Bulgaria. Magical!

Another outing took us to Canyon Jerma. A truly fascinating area. Along the canyon is a lovely river also called Jerma. It inter winds between Bulgaria and Serbia.    Here you can free camp beside the river and enjoy the sounds of trickling water. We enjoyed a picnic lunch here beside the river. Our picnic basket was filled with fresh produce which we picked up at the Pirot market on our way through.  Our supplies contained  “susenicka”*, peppers, fresh bread, boiled eggs and a salad made of fresh cucumbers and tomatoes.  I would like to make note that the road to this area is not a freeway and caution must be had at all times.

 

Lake Divljana is located approximately 5km East of Bela Palanka.  Also a nice area where you can free camp. While we visited the lake we were fascinated by a fisherman who was catching fish without bait. He managed to catch his prey by enticing them to bite at his line without bait.  His line served as an imaginary fly. While on the other side of the lake the traditional fisherman with line and bait in hand peacefully and calmly waited to reel their catch in. A truly lovely experience. 

The fisherman at Lake Divljan

We also visited the monastery in Divljan.  While we paid a visit to the monastery we were pleasantly greeted  by the local monarch as well as two young girls that were spending their school holidays in the monastery. Their angelic voices singing the verses of the bible were soothing to our ears and soul. When we sat under a tree in the gardens of the monastery and asked them what bought them here they said that they enjoyed coming to the monastery and met friends of similar age here. They spent their school holidays in the monastery helping cook and clean as well as sell church souvenirs to tourists and visitors.  The cemetery in the monastery was presented by past nuns that served the lord.  Most of them originated from Russia.

From left to right - me, Vera , Mili and Stanco.

Thank you to our lovely hosts Vera and  Stanco. We are greatful for the truly Serbian experience and the memory of their truly warm hospitality will forever remain with us. Hvala vam na divnim danima.

On travels down the road back to Bela Palanka we stopped under a tree that was 1200years old. Its younger counterpart aging only 800 years. 

The 1200year old tree

I hope that by way of this blog I have managed to entice you to visit Serbia. It truly is a different experience and one not to be missed while travelling through Europe.  The people are still struggling to  free themselves from wars and bombings of the past.  There is still poverty and hardship but don’t let that deter you from visiting a country that will one day again be on Europe’s top list of must see. I think it already is part of the list.  Ziveli!