Bed and breakfast on wheels: The end of a fabulous journeyAs we commence thed...

Bed and breakfast on wheels: The end of a fabulous journey
As  we commence thed...: The end of a fabulous journey As   we commence the descent of our journey in our motorhome , we are filled with mixed emotions. Rejoi...

Bed and breakfast on wheels: The end of a fabulous journeyAs we commence thed...

Bed and breakfast on wheels: The end of a fabulous journey
As  we commence thed...: The end of a fabulous journey As   we commence the descent of our journey in our motorhome , we are filled with mixed emotions. Rejoi...

Bed and breakfast on wheels: The end of a fabulous journeyAs we commence thed...

Bed and breakfast on wheels: The end of a fabulous journey
As  we commence thed...: The end of a fabulous journey As   we commence the descent of our journey in our motorhome , we are filled with mixed emotions. Rejoi...

The end of a fabulous journey

As  we commence the descent of our journey in our motorhome , we are filled with mixed emotions. Rejoice and happiness for the great time we had, yet tears and sadness to be parting with our motorhome. Duca, our lovely home on wheels , we hope will go to a warm and loving home. He certainly deserves it.  Under 12 months we have managed to do a total of 14309kilometres. We travelled through mainland Europe from Germany, down the epicentre of France and along the French Rivieria.  Though the middle of  Italy and westerly  into Venice. Trieste, Slovenia and the Istrian coast. Serbia , Greece and then back in through Austria and home to Munich where we began the journey of our dreams in April 2012.

We have no regrets just wonderful memories of every city, town and village that we visited. Carrying our most valued possessions with us where ever we went we didn’t feel home sick or nostalgic.  Stopping to enjoy breathtaking views of oceans, lakes, mountains and rivers was what made our road trip most memorable. Parking alongside the Adriatic sea on the Island of Krk was one of our most memorable moments. Or driving through the Austrian Alps and seeing mountains of snow will be an unforgotten experience.

The downfall of the travel was entering into a city and finding a suitable parking space for our  small truck.  That was the most difficult part of the journey but towards the end of the trip we have no fear of small cities and their narrow roads. We just enter and turn as the locals look on and scratch their heads in bewilderment.  It was fun playing with the mind of a parking attendant on the foot of Ludwigs castle in Germany He attempted to explain  that parking was not allowed where we had parked and wanted to speak to “The man”, when I asked him why, he said to explain where to park the car. I then proudly said I was the driver. He looked at me and smiled, the conversation was instantly reversed from frozen to welcoming. No fines to be paid for the overnight parking just movement of the vehicle and ready for the days sightseeing.

There were two not so pleasant aspects of the trip which I don’t want to revisit in this part of the story.  Go back and read the blog on roadside robbery and all will be clear. We have absolutely no regrets and will recommend Europe by motorhome or RV to anyone. We can help you investigate your options or answer any questions that you may have. It was a pleasure doing the trip.  I feel that I am a wiser persona s I have travelled. I have learnt  about people and that we are all the same in many aspects. We live to survive and don’t live to live! This journey has helped me live to live. My life has taken a new turn and I am now not quite sure which path to take.  Much reflection and time needs to pass in order for me to know what the best journey is now.

If you have the means do a Europe by motorhome or RV journey. It’s one of the best life experiences.

We have had a ball. Enjoy life and live it to the fullest. Thank you Duca for making this a memorable journey, you are the best house on wheels that we have ever had and we will remember you for as long as we live. Thanks to the Gluck team for its great service we will be sure to recommend you.

Bon Voyage wherever  life’s road may take you.

Bed and breakfast on wheels: Paris Je T'aime

Bed and breakfast on wheels: Paris Je Taime: Everyone has an opinion on Paris.   A common ground is that you either love it or hate it.   There is no in between.    Twenty days in Par...

Paris Je Taime

Everyone has an opinion on Paris.  A common ground is that you either love it or hate it.  There is no in between.   Twenty days in Paris starting from the beginning of Autumn2012 bring with them a picturesque story that will forever fill my heart and soul. This is my forth visit to Paris in my lifetime and based on this information you can only assume that my relationship with Paris is a “love one”.  I will try to transfer my experience to you in words and some pictures but unless you see Paris for yourself only then will you feel your “own Paris”. Really Paris is everyone’s. It’s filled with tourists year round. The Parisians try to escape them when they have their vacations but when they come back there are just as many people from all over the world as when they left.

 

For those of you that have been to Paris you will know that the frequent visited places are the tourist attractions life the Tour Eiffel  or Champs de Mars, Arc de Triumph and Sacre Coure just to mention a few. There are so many more on the list. The aim of this particular write up is to steer you away from the tourist monuments and attractions. You can easily visit them. I want to take you for a walk through,   my Paris.

Our location whilst in Paris was the camping ground of the Bois de Boulogne.  For a first time visitor I would not recommend this location as it requires some knowledge of the railway system (metro) and for most visitors they are in Paris for less than a week. Long term it’s a fabulous location and I say the best on a budget too.  There a bungalows at the camp site and for a family this is great value. You can cook and have all the amenities like being at home. Some hotels don’t have a bar fridge so the bungalows are a fabulous option, that’s if you don’t have a camper or motorhome like we do.  The camping ground is a huge complex so check it out on their web site and see what the best combination is for your budget. www.pariscampings.fr  . The camp site runs all year round unlike a lot of other camp sites in Europe that close in the winter. Paris is open to everyone all year and so this camping ground reflects this image of Paris.

To get to and from the site,   you can use either the camps private shuttle bus which costs   1.70Euro per person per trip or, if you have a Paris visite pass then the fare is included but you must have purchased it at the camping ground. The camp bus only runs until 00:15. Check their time table as it varies weekly.  There are 2 bus services 244 or 241.  You need to walk about 300metres from the camp through the forest to get to the bus stop and the buses only run until 9pm. So beware if you are planning on staying out late. There is a night rider and check carefully where it stops before using this option. You might be waiting at the bus stop for a long time and still no bus will come.

We rarely used the camp shuttle as we purchased a “navi” which gave us unlimited travel on the metro and bus lines for 7days.  Short term I suggest the Paris visite as do all the guide books but long term definitely go for the navi, its like being a local. The navi costs 30Euro to set up initially and thereafter only 19 Euro a week. If you come prepared as we did with some extra passport sized photos then the cost will only be 25euro to set up.  Passport photos cost 5 euro from the booths. Then all you need to do is recharge the Navi the day before it expires. If you need extra zones it’s a few extra euros. Tailor it to your needs but it is certainly a saving for a long term visitor in Paris.

The square in Suresnes at lunch time

Our days were spent at local puches and Marches. We had a lovely market that we would visit across the river seine. The little town is called Suresnes. The cobbled, tree lined side streets are filled with little boutiques, boucheries and Boulongeries. Cafes of course are where people congregate for their daily café crème. Market day is Wednesday and Sunday and the local square comes to life. At the market you can pick up everything that you need to cook up and serve a tasty French meal.  There are also clothing and shoe stalls. The prices are not so low at this market but Suresnes its self does not appear to be a low cost area. A lady I chatted to in the town referred to it as “cute” I would say quaint.

Another market we came across was the market just opposite the Bastille. It runs on Sundays.  There you can pick up fruit and vegetables at budget prices.   At this market you can pick up  bijouterie for as little as one euro, clothing, handbags, clothing and accessories. There is fresh fish, poultry, fruit and vegetables , cakes, breads and of course a creperie. It’s a lovely market to visit on a Sunday and doesn’t seem to be as fast paced. After all it is a Sunday.

 We managed to fit in one more market during our 3weeks in Paris. The Marche de Aligres . It too has fruit and vegetables at budget prices and I would highly recommend this market as my number one choice. There are 3 main parts to this market. The fruit stalls on the main street and the  French producers in the enclosed area where you can buy locally produced goods. I found their prices rather high but that s understandable as everything is locally grown and produced with minimal pesticides. Under the enclosure you will find  meats, cheeses and other perishable goods hence it is under cover and sheltered away from germs. 

The marche d' Aligre as you walk in

 Here you can pick up as many varieties of cheese, tripe and black pudding. You can pick up amazing parts of animals that we in the west would normally cringe at the thought of eating.  The French however consider them as a delicacy and a normal part of their diet.  For lovers of a good drop of wine, there is a little shop just up the road from the marche that offer degustation sessions.  Good wine is easy to come by in France for a small price but there are also expensive options for those wanting to spend their pennies on a good vino. Paris has something for everyone.  The 3^rd part of the market is the flea market. It is positioned in the middle of the market and has so much to offer.  I almost bought a full silver service set for a small 120Euro. That’s what I call an absolute bargain.

The colourful flea market at the Marche d' Aligre

 

The shops lining the street behind the stall holders should not go unmissed.  There are second hand clothing stores that sell next to nothing designer labels, Halal meat sellers and so many other little hidden treasures.

Before you leave this market, be sure to drop by at the corner seafood shop. Here you will be amazed at the size and variety of the seafood platter. It is a relaxing way to end this market adventure and wind down for the relaxing Sunday ahead.

I have so much more to tell you about “My Paris” and feel like l am hyperventilating as I write this as if I am talking to you instead of typing the appropriate text.  I found many side streets with interesting boutiques, fascinating patisseries,  “Tabacs” and cafes.  Apart from markets we spent many lovely days in parks and gardens. We particularly liked the luscious landscaped Jardin du Luxembourg. We were there on a Sunday and so was half of Paris.

See what I mean , half of Paris really was in the Luxembourg gardens on the Sunday I was there.

 

The Parisiens were either nestled in an iron chair soaking up the sun or on a picnic blanket enjoying the treats that they prepared for this Sunday outing or waiting in a queue for their children to play on the equipment provided for children. There are pony rides, cart rides and a puppet theatre for children. There are several cafes within the complex where you can sit and have a café crème , light snack or refreshments. At the entrance to the jardin, there are 2 ice cream stalls. They say that the ice cream is handcrafted so I tried the lavender flavoured ice cream. It was the best purple coloured, lavender flavoured ice cream that I have had in my life.  



The other open area that we enjoyed immensely was the Bois de Boulogne. Not only because we were staying close to its proximity, its a lovely green space. It is more like a forest but it has a garden as well which is called the Jardin d’ Acclimation. This part of the “Bois” is well manicured and has activities for the whole family to enjoy. Outside the jardin d acclimation and in the actual Bois there is a lovely lake which is home to swans and ducks. 

The ducks in the pond at the Bois De Boulogne

There is a little café where you can sit and enjoy your surroundings or pack a picnic lunch and sit on one of the benches looking on to the large pond. There is a large open sports field which on weekends comes alive with cricket, soccer and rugby teams.  There are bicycle tracks around and through the park. If you don’t have your own bicycle then you can either rent one at the front of the jardin d acclimation or the Paris municipality has set up bikes in various locations throughout the city. All you have to do is insert your master or visa card that has a chip and when finished return it to the spot closest to your destination. You might be lucky and there may just be a drop of point near your accommodation.   The bicycle system is called the vivo.  Not to be missed is the large Hippodrome next to the gardens. When the races are on this is an event not to be missed. Going to the races in Paris, how chic!

Apart from the lovely markets and gardens that I visited on this trip there is one little remark that I would like to make about visiting Paris. I noticed that there were many pick pockets in the city. We were stumbled upon a lady in the overcrowded area just near the Opera Garnier when she bent down and picked up a “gold ring”. She probably had the ring in her hand the whole time but we didn’t think that at the time.  She looked around asked if it was ours and then kept walking with us telling us to take the ring as she had no one. She conveniently dropped the ring into my shopping bag and continued to tell us how she lost her passport and had no job or money isn’t married and has no family. I tried to take the ring out of my bag but she kept insisting I keep it. All she wanted was something to eat. I offered her the coffee I was carrying but she didn’t want it. She want glace – ice cream. So I stood in the queue to buy her an ice cream but when I suddenly realised that I was wasting my time and was about to spend 10Euro on an ice cream for a  complete stranger.  I withdrew from the queue. She quickly wanted her ring back and was not impressed that she was not successful in her game.  I gave her 4 Euro, the ring and was off. I was conned.

Despite this little incident and my partner, being fondled by a pick pocket on the train, we still love Paris. We are cautious and careful travellers so we are not disturbed by these experiences. All I say is you must be on your guard at all times. Put valuables far away and deep down into areas that cannot be accessed such as deep pockets in jackets and carry your back packs in front of you. Hand bags held by the strap only can be cut and you might be found holding onto your strap only. This may seem funny but it’s so true.

On that note of caution I would like to say visit as many gardens and Parks in Paris and try to spend some time sitting in cafes people watching. That’s what this beautiful and enchanting city is all about. Paris Jai Adore until the next visit.

A special tribute to Serbia

Our motorhome travels came to a standstill once we arrived in Serbia. My blogs became less frequent even though cyber access was better than in some other countries.  Time seemed to slow down, eating habits and daily routines all changed. I am unable to explain the reason for this rather drastic change in habits but they were evidently there.

When we first arrived in May on election day,  the days were still cold and we experienced a full week of continuous rainfall.  Wheat in the fields was ready for harvest and corn ready for planting. The grass was green, flowers blooming and it was evident that Spring had arrived.

We pitched our mobile home in the camping grounds on the outskirts of Belgrade in Zemun Polje where we were surrounded by fields of corn.  The camp ground is called auto kamp Dunav. It is run by the AMSS group. The facilities that they do have  - sanitary block with hot showers ,   fresh water to fill your tank as well as chemical waste disposal. Apart from these listed there really isn’t much else on the ground. Waste water as we were advised can be dumped somewhere on a sides street. I wouldn’t advise this method. Instead, the petrol stations have car washes and waste water areas and you can freely dump your waste water at any one of these sites.  The camp ground is not designed for a long term holiday in Serbia and is best described as a camping ground for transit stay. Similar to the country it is located in.

We did day trips and on one particular excursion we visited the  region of Srem – Vojvodina. Instead of the freeway we took the old road via  Stara Pazoa, Nova Pazoa and Indjia. This was once the main road to Novi Sad from Belgrade. Now most people get on the E75 freeway.  The trip via the old road is slightly longer but much nicer. No point in taking the freeway when you want to look at the scenery and sights. The road took us to Banostol a small village beside the Danube overlooking Novi Sad. There we stumbled upon a lovely wine cellar. The cellar door was open and we managed to taste some lovely Riesling, dry red and the local “bermet”. A sweet red wine infused with various spices like cinnamon and clove, all contributing to its lovely flavour. The owner and producer of the wines – Jova, explained that he personally travelled to Italy to buy the  grape vines that he wanted to plant as he was very particular about the grapes that he uses to make his wines.  You can buy lovely wines from as little as 400 dinars  (AU$4) for 2litres. The wines have been carefully packed in plastic bottles for ease of transport. It is obvious that Gazda* Jova  knows his business and is well equipped for tourists wanting to take his wines abroad. 

 For those wanting to do a wine tour there is signage from the freeway Belgrade – Zagreb E70 just 60km North of Belgrade that directs you to the  “fruskogorski wine route” or Fruskogorski vinski put”. A lovely route for wine buffs or anyone that enjoys nice scenery.

Fruskagora is well known for its Monastries  Krusedol, Grgeteg, Rakovac and Ravanica just to name a few.  Maps of the region are readily available from the Belgrade or Novi Sad tourist bureaus. The monarchs at the monasteries will greet you with a smile and show you through their monasteries that are filled with history dating back many hundreds of years.  The area was under Austrio-Hungarian rule and differs in history from the south of Serbia which was under Turkish Ottoman rule for over 500years.

We left Gazda Jova and his cellar with some lovely wines and headed back towards Belgrade. Many days were spent with friends and family eating locally produced foods.  We ate lovely cheese unpasteurised hard cheese from the village of Grgurevci as well as smoked meats.  The omletes we ate were made with free range eggs and the yolks were yellow like food colouring had been added. Similar to ones I ate in Tasmania. One thing that I would like to recommend and something that I don’t eat or even think about eating while I am at home is  bacon. Here they call it “slanina” and in Srem they have a particular type called “sapunjara”. The Sapunjara is pure fat and I have thoroughly enjoyed it for breakfast with freshly picked tomatoes, raw onion slices and fresh bread from the bakery.  As I said in the beginning of this special tribute to Serbia many a things changed while I was here and it is evident that eating habits totally went out of the norm. No muesli here was eaten even if it is readily available at all of the supermarkets.

Belgrade itself is such a lovely city. Its architecture is rich with many areas resembling Parisian streets and walkways.

The Skadarlija area with its cobbled streets and poetic bohemian atmosphere was once the quarter where poets and writers congregated and lived.   It is a lovely area and at night comes alive with musicians and singers entertaining guests with their instruments that are played personally to “your ear”. The food is traditionally Serbian but it is also untraditionally expensive.  I say untraditionally expensive because for foreigners food in Serbia is very cheap.  Here are a few examples of what prices you can expect to pay for food.  Crepes filled with Eurocrem*  and plazma* 180dinars (AU$1.80) , pljeskavica* with kupus* , pindjur* in a lepinja*  250dinars (Au$2.50), burek* with cheese or meat 180dinars (AU$1.80).

Apart from the great food here don’t miss the traditional tourist areas of Kalemegdan fortress. The Usce just under Dorcol (Not to be mistaken with the Usce shopping centre in New Belgrade). The Usce under Dorcol has a great cycle track which goes all the way to the Ada. There are cafes and restaurants on boats over looking the Danube.  The river bank along the Danube on the Northern side of the city – Novi Beograd/Zemun looks onto the city of Belgrade and  is also a fabulous spot.  Belgrade is situated on two rivers and hence the terminology Usce –  which means narrowing. The term refers specifically to the joining of two rivers the Sava from Slovenia and the Danube from the Black forest in Germany.  Continuing on as one into the Black sea. There are museums and galleries as well as regular shows that are held in the prestige Sava Centre or huge Belgrade Arena. Don’t forget that Serbia is a well known sporting country now not only with Novak Djokic at the top of the list but basketball, handball and volleyball as well as soccer. If you are lucky to be in town when red Star plays Partizan this is always a match to see.

While we were in Belgrade we were less fortunate to experience some tropical heat waves of plus 38degrees. We found sitting under a shady tree near water the best way to get through these days of extreme heat. Most “Belgradians” * go to the Ada*. This area has been transformed into a swimming area on the river Sava. There is a pebbled area for those wanting to sun bathe and swim, a secured area for nudist sun bathing whilst there are cafes, restaurants and lots of shady areas for those wanting to escape the direct sunlight. At night the area transforms into an evening bathing spot where people congregate after a hard day at work. There is a path way that goes all the way around the river which is also a pleasant spot to exercise either by walking, riding a bike or on roller blades.   Bikes and roller blades can be hired for those that don’t have their own.
 



Market day in Pirot

There is so much to do and see in Serbia. Before I finish this blog on Serbia I would like to make a very special mention to the area around Pirot and Bela Palanka which is situated in the South East of Serbia close to the border of Bulgaria.   An area not to be missed if you are heading South via Nis. Bela Palanka has a lovely market that operates on Fridays. Fresh fruit and vegetables are sold here and are all locally grown. We ate some of the local produce and this area is famously well known for its cheeses like kackavalj*  as well as goats yoghurt and Pirotsko jagnje*

Time slows down in Bela Palanka with a horse drawn carriage

 

Between Pirot and Bela Palanka lies a small village called Sljivovik. A run down village but there is a keen couple there called Vera and Stanco Zivkovic that have transformed a once run down family home into an oasis in the mountains. They produce their own fruit and vegetables as well as buying local foods from farmers. They ritually start the day with a small shot of sljivovica* which they have produced from their own plums, then a tablespoon of slatko* make from cranberries. There after comes a cup of black traditional coffee or better termed as “Turkish coffee”. All of this comes with good conversation, fresh air and lots of  love.  Vera was once a chef in a well known hotel in Ivanjica so you can rest assured  that the food she cooks is flavoursome and hearty. We particularly enjoyed her bean broth.  We were fortunate to be present one morning when the president of the village visited our hosts asking them to come to the village square to discuss an important matter of water. The village bell was rung before hand to alert the village that a meeting was to take place.  The meeting had already begun with sljivovic and coffee at our hosts’ house.

The early morning meeting with the village President. (He's the one with the cap)

 

Looking down at the village of Sljivovik

The views from the hill top in Sljivovik were magic  and we thoroughly enjoyed the sunset.  While on the hill top we nestled next to the troughs where goats stop to drink whilst on their daily walks. A particular memory we will take home with us is the melodic sounds of the goats bells. A unique experience and one that is difficult to describe. The bells of the goats are usually heard in the  morning  or late afternoon as they go for their feed.  We learnt that the brass bells were specifically purchased to be in tone. Hence the term “music to your ears”. It is not a chime rather a soft melody of bells ringing.  When visiting this area be sure to listen out for the “goat bell symphony” as they go for their daily feed.

On our next visit to the area  we hope to climb to the top of the “Sljivovicki vis”. They say on a clear day you can see the Avala tower in Serbia and Sofija in Bulgaria. Magical!

Another outing took us to Canyon Jerma. A truly fascinating area. Along the canyon is a lovely river also called Jerma. It inter winds between Bulgaria and Serbia.    Here you can free camp beside the river and enjoy the sounds of trickling water. We enjoyed a picnic lunch here beside the river. Our picnic basket was filled with fresh produce which we picked up at the Pirot market on our way through.  Our supplies contained  “susenicka”*, peppers, fresh bread, boiled eggs and a salad made of fresh cucumbers and tomatoes.  I would like to make note that the road to this area is not a freeway and caution must be had at all times.

 

Lake Divljana is located approximately 5km East of Bela Palanka.  Also a nice area where you can free camp. While we visited the lake we were fascinated by a fisherman who was catching fish without bait. He managed to catch his prey by enticing them to bite at his line without bait.  His line served as an imaginary fly. While on the other side of the lake the traditional fisherman with line and bait in hand peacefully and calmly waited to reel their catch in. A truly lovely experience. 

The fisherman at Lake Divljan

We also visited the monastery in Divljan.  While we paid a visit to the monastery we were pleasantly greeted  by the local monarch as well as two young girls that were spending their school holidays in the monastery. Their angelic voices singing the verses of the bible were soothing to our ears and soul. When we sat under a tree in the gardens of the monastery and asked them what bought them here they said that they enjoyed coming to the monastery and met friends of similar age here. They spent their school holidays in the monastery helping cook and clean as well as sell church souvenirs to tourists and visitors.  The cemetery in the monastery was presented by past nuns that served the lord.  Most of them originated from Russia.

From left to right - me, Vera , Mili and Stanco.

Thank you to our lovely hosts Vera and  Stanco. We are greatful for the truly Serbian experience and the memory of their truly warm hospitality will forever remain with us. Hvala vam na divnim danima.

On travels down the road back to Bela Palanka we stopped under a tree that was 1200years old. Its younger counterpart aging only 800 years. 

The 1200year old tree

I hope that by way of this blog I have managed to entice you to visit Serbia. It truly is a different experience and one not to be missed while travelling through Europe.  The people are still struggling to  free themselves from wars and bombings of the past.  There is still poverty and hardship but don’t let that deter you from visiting a country that will one day again be on Europe’s top list of must see. I think it already is part of the list.  Ziveli!